Saturday, 16 November 2013

One of our favorite cities,
St Petersburg
October 26 – 31

I fell in love with St Petersburg just over two years ago on my visit there, and after hyping it up to Gem, I was hoped it would be as good as I remembered -  and it was.

St Petersburg is an amazing city, its beautiful, its fun and the people there are lovely. It is sometimes referred to as the Venice of the east due to its many canals winding through the city and its stunning architecture. It wasn’t long after we arrived that Gem said that she could see herself living here.

So we spent 6 days in St Petersburg, and for pretty much the first time in Russia, we had consecutive days of rain and grey skies, which we didn’t mind. Our days consisted of much the same thing, sleeping in, making breakfast and then going out exploring and sightseeing for a few hours of the day, and then coming back and relaxing for a while before venturing back out again at night for dinner and drinks.

We had a lovely room at Soul Kitchen Junior Hostel that overlooked one of the canals. The bed was extremely comfortable which contributed to the many sleep in’s we had. This hostel is by far the best hostel we have ever stayed in. The location was perfect overlooking one of the canals, just a short stroll from St Isaac’s Cathedral and the river, and then in the other direction Nevsky Prospekt, the main street of St Petersburg. Besides its location, the interior was huge, with a massive couch and projector screen with hundreds of movies, a huge country style kitchen and great staff who were extremely helpful. They even enjoyed a few drinks with us. It was a solid group staying at the hostel and we were able to have a few boozey nights with them.

St Petersburg has some of, if not the most impressive church interiors I have ever seen, in particular, St Isaac’s Cathedral and The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood. Under the candy-like spires of the church, the walls and ceilings are covered from floor to ceiling with impressive, mosaic artworks that are so intricate that until you are up close, look like detailed paintings. The elaborate walls and ceiling are truly breathtaking.

Hard to beat, but in my honest opinion I think St Isaac’s takes first place for amazing interiors. The exterior might not be as visually appealing as The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood but it still a stunning. It’s a huge building with a dome set high above the city skyline that gives you a 360 view of the St Petersburg. A random fact about St Petersburg is that buildings cannot be built higher then the Winter Palace (which is around 22m high) unless it is a church. So at the top of St Isaac’s, you get an uninterrupted view of the city all the way to the horizon.

Inside of St Isaac’s you have a huge open area that is covered by beautiful incredibly detailed paintings. Everywhere you look inside this cathedral there are paintings, all as equally impressive as each other.

Besides the interiors of the churches, some other amazing architecture could be found in less assuming places such as bars, cafes and restaurants. Each place we went to looked like it belonged in an interior design magazine. Whether it was a quirky coffee shop, burger joint on Nevsky Prospect, or the little hole in the wall diner on a random backstreet, they all looked as though they had been designed and decorated by highly skilled designers.

One other building that must be mentioned is the Marinsky Theatre. We were lucky enough to visit this amazing venue one night to watch an opera. The story was about a girl who wanted to elope with her lover. Her father didn’t approve and after a heated argument the boyfriend pointed a gun at the father – after losing his nerve and dropped the gun and it accidently went off and killed the father. The story is very much a roller-coaster from this point, and it all got rather complicated. All the characters cross paths without them realizing etc.  The sets, costumes and voices made for a really impressive opera!

The days were spent much the same, sleeping in which was nice and was easy to do since the sun didn’t rise till after 9am, then we’d make some breakfast and spend the day gallivanting around the city, checking out all the buildings, sculptures and bits and pieces the city had to offer.

We did try something a little usual one rainy morning that was great fun, a visit to the Museum of Soviet Arcade Games. Upon paying your entry fee you are given a bunch of 15 kopek coins (old Russian coins) and then you have free roam the museum to use any of the old machines on display. The games seemed to be based on two main things, sport, and shooting things (mostly animals or ships), with the occasional car-racing machine being thrown into the mix. We had a blast in here, and we got quite competitive! We played some shooting games and then had a few games of basketball, drove some cars, sunk some ships and then played an ice hockey version of foosball.  We weren’t sure what the museum was going to be like, but it was awesome! We felt like big kids and I loved it!

Our last night in St Petersburg was a great way to finish it off, we grabbed a few beers and sat around the common room chatting with some of the other travellers, and then the staff got involved as well and before we knew it we had a great group of 20+ just sitting around, drinking beer, wine and of course some vodka and just having a good laugh. It made it even harder to leave this city that we were both in love with.


Flags and balloons during the Winter Olympic street parade

The crowds gathering for the parade

Gem and a young Russian in his military outfit

The Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood

Inside The Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood

Inside The Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood

Kazan Cathedral

Tasty lunch at Zoom Cafe

Getting arty while waiting for our food at Zoom Cafe

Nevsky Prospekt

Out and about in St Petersburg

Inside St Isaac's Cathedral

Stairs to the top of St Isaacs

The roof of St Isaacs

St Isaacs Cathedral

St Isaacs Cathedral

St Isaacs Cathedral

Gem and The Bronze Horseman

St Petersburg skyline from the top of St Isaacs

Hermitage and winter palace, just before the storm hit

Random spaceship

More souvenirs 

More matryoshka dolls

Artist painting St Isaacs Cathdral 

The canal outside our hostel

Marinsky Theatre stage

Marinsky Theatre

The Soviet Arcade Museum

The Soviet Arcade Museum

The Soviet Arcade Museum

The Soviet Arcade Museum

The Soviet Arcade Museum

The Soviet Arcade Museum

The Soviet Arcade Museum

The Hermitage

The Hermitage

The Hermitage

The Hermitage

Out and about in St Petersburg

Out and about in St Petersburg

The view from the hostel balcony

Out and about in St Petersburg

Coloured buildings across from our room

Out and about in St Petersburg

The crew at Soul Kitchen

Vodka time



Babushkas, Scarves, Cameras
and tattoos, Moscow
October 23 – 26


Considering that is was pretty easy to get to Suzdal, we thought that retracing our steps back to Moscow would be a walk in the park. Unfortunately not... We arrived at the main bus-station in Vladimir nice and early and went to buy our tickets. We approached the lady behind the counter and asked for two tickets to Moscow and she rambled something in Russian, so I told her that I didn’t understand (in Russian) only to be verbally assaulted in return. We decided to cut our losses and wait for our bus to arrive before we bought our tickets. I think we jinxed ourselves, as we had said to each other just mere hours before how amazing and friendly everyone in Russia had been, until the meeting of the evil ticket lady.

It turns out (for some stupid reason) they can’t sell tickets for buses until 20-30 minutes before the departure time. So, rather hesitantly, I approached the ticketing desk again, making sure I went to a different lady this time, and tried again, and in less then two minutes we had two tickets to Moscow.

After the ticket ordeal, we made it to Moscow and easily found our hostel (it was located next door to the Moscow Torture Museum so it wasn’t difficult to find) and we settled into our cute little room that overlooked Arbat Street, a bustling pedestrian street filled with painters, tourists, restaurants and street performers.

Our time in Moscow seemed to just disappear! The first day we took a wander in the afternoon down to Red Square and even though I had seen it all before, it was great to go back there with Gem and feel that same sense of awe, as it truly is an amazing place.

Day two in Moscow Gem spent exploring Arbat Street and wandered down to one of Moscow’s extremely soviet looking buildings. Me on the other hand, I spent it elsewhere, in a tattoo parlor in the north of Moscow.

Prior to our trip I had spent months researching Russian tattoo artists in Moscow that I liked, and stumbled across the guys at XK Tattoo. Luckily, the studio manager Zoey spoke perfect English and was an awesome help with getting it all sorted as Artemy, the artist who did the tattoos, didn’t speak much English. Long story short, I spent the whole day under the needle, (sorry mum) and hanging out in the studio with a wicked group of people. Was a long day, and by the end my thighs were very tender and I was glad they were done, but was worth it!

Day three, we walked, and walked, and we walked a little more. Moscow is a pretty big city and there is a lot to see. We were told about this café called Clockface, a café where you drink all the tea and eat all the biscuits and treats you want and you are charged by the amount of time you spend there, rather then what you consume. This excursion was unsuccessful, and we accidently stumbled into a smokey, tacky sushi restaurant, which we were quick to smoke-bomb out of.
I went for a twilight stroll later that evening in the rain to take some photos, as I had been neglecting my camera since arriving in Moscow.

On our final day in Moscow we visited Izmailovsky Market, a huge market not far from the city center. This market is the best place to buy souvenirs, whether it be matroshka/babushka dolls, painted eggs, fur hats or soviet clothing – you name it, you can find it here.

The whole area upstairs is a huge flea market with most of the stores consisting of people’s possessions they no longer need sprawled out on rugs. You could find anything from old Lenin statues, USSR war medals, handicrafts, paintings, old books, pots and pans etc. If it’s Russian and pre 2000 you could get it here. We got lost admiring the random objects and finally peeled ourselves from the flea market back downstairs to the regular market.

Our goals were simple; a big babushka doll for us, a Russian scarf for Gem, a tacky magnet for our collection and a camera from one of the many camera vendors.

We were very strategic and scoped out the entire market before we bought anything. We found the perfect Babushka Doll, a beautiful 15 piece hand painted set that we later found out was four times the price back in the city center.

Next – the magnet! With copious amounts of magnetic tackiness available, it wasn’t long before we ticked that one off the list.

We found Gem’s scarf at little store with a great selection, and Gem quickly found the one she had been eyeballing earlier. After a lovely conversation with the cute old seller (a 5-10 minute conversation in complete Russian which we did not understand a word of) we had Gem’s scarf.

On our way to the camera stand, we saw some perfect gifts for some loved ones at home (which we wont reveal names and/or present here) and quickly snapped up those pieces, as well as a quick Russian lesson from the sweet old lady seller, who helped us with our Russian pronunciation.

And then it came down to my task of the day - camera shopping. Now for a camera nerd like myself this place is ecstasy. With hundreds of old soviet cameras from the last 100 years on display and for sale this was never going to be an easy decision. There were two boxes the camera had to tick, it had to work, and it had to be 35mm. I was caressing a couple of gold Leica’s at one store (too afraid to ask for a price), and then stumbled across a lovely little thing that I thought - this has to be mine. So doing my best, I asked the seller how much, 13000rubles ($450AUD). After a quick calculation, I put the camera down and decided to look at some others. It turns out the one I had picked up and fell in love with was an extremely rare, compact range finder that now on ebay goes for close to $1000.  So at $450 it actually would’ve been a steal!

Feeling a little dishearted I began playing and testing some other cameras and I grew to like a Zenit TTL 1977 camera that was in absolute mint condition. Everything worked and there wasn’t a mark on it and the glass was clean. Expecting a substantial price tag when I asked the man how much, he looked at me and replied, 1500 (around $40), which caught me by surprise. I think he saw my passion, or possibly just wanted me to stop man-handling his cameras. Regardless, I was grateful for the good price, and after a brief run-down on how to use it I walked away with my trophy! We left the markets feeling very pleased with ourselves!

After check out, we hung around the hostel before our train. We got to the station, lined up, then got a call from the hostel that we had left a bag in the taxi, we ran back outside to get the bag containing everything we had brought at the markets earlier and lined up again before eventually boarding the train to one of our favorite cities in the world.  St Petersburg.

Just hanging out in Red Square

Red Square

St Basils Cathedral

Inside one of Moscow's very grand metro stations

Some of the Moscow locals, a sleeping guard and a pigeon lady

Impressive architecture 

The lights coming on in Red Square

More Russian architecture

Outside Red Square

Outside Red Sqaure

Moscow Metro

Out and about in Moscow

Out and about in Moscow

Another grand metro station

Moscow at night

Arbat street action

Artist on Arbat Street

Up close with some Metro artwork

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

Izmaylovo Market

A weather St Basils model and beautiful detailed box at Izmaylovo Market

Old propaganda posters, Izmaylovo Market

Some of the market locals

I wanted everything she had in this store

The scarf lady who we shared a lovely conversation with

Pins and hats at Izmaylovo Market

Doing the camera deal

More bits and pieces at Izmaylovo Market

Cameras!

If you can't find the perfect Matryoshka doll here, you have no chance

Izmaylovo Market

Extremely tasty shish kebab lunch

No shortage of Matryoshka dolls here

I love Moscow metro

Our two big purchases