After three months on the road and an 11
hour flight from London, we reached our final destination, Thailand, with a
couple of days in Bangkok to begin before heading to Koh Tao for a couple of
weeks of sun, sea and a whole lot of nothing.
Bangkok is a city you either love or hate,
and after 4 times here, I still love the place. It’s hot, it’s busy, it’s full
of weird and wonderful smells and its just such an interesting place. Food
stalls line the streets at all hours of the day, shopkeepers sell everything
from designer handbags to full moon party singlets, buckets of booze to
electrical goods. It really has something for everyone.
After our long flight, we didn’t feel like
doing much once we arrived at our hotel around 6pm, so we dropped our bags off
and went for a wander to the backpackers paradise of Kho Sahn Road to see what
bargains we could score and of course to get some tasty street pad Thai for dinner.
It ended up becoming a very successful night. We got some good deals on a few
bits and pieces of clothing (although bargaining here isn’t as easy or
rewarding as China) and we got our street pad Thai which hasn’t changed in
price since I was first here 7 years ago, 30baht for egg pad Thai and another
20 for a few spring rolls, a delicious dinner for less then $2.
An early night was a success for Gem as she
fell into a coma as soon as her head hit the pillow, but me on the other hand
battled for the first time in my life with what I guess is jet lag. I thought
getting a big sleep on the plane was good news, but it wasn’t and resulted in
just a couple of hours of restless sleep.
It’s not like I needed any sleep anyways,
as day two was far from strenuous. After breakfast, we decided to get a
massage, something we were both in need of after months of travelling and
carrying bags around. I opted for a hard Thai massage to really sort me out and
Gem went for the more relaxing coconut oil option.
Massages in Thailand are a complete
different experience to your normal, relaxing massage. Instead of the soothing
soundtrack of a rainforest or whales, your ears are treated to the sound of the
bustling streets below and the unmistakable sound of tuk tuks screaming around
the streets. Then instead of being lathered in a ylang ylang lavender oil
concoction, there’s nothing but the dry, super human strength hands ripping
into your muscles without the aid of oil. And its not just hands that do the
massaging, elbows and feet and knees also contribute to the experience. You get
bent, twisted, hit, slapped and poked for an hour by a little lady that looks
like she should be making you a pad Thai. Once the hour is done, you feel
amazing. Your muscles knots and kinks have been beaten out of your body and
your flexibility feels like its improved 200%. It’s not a relaxing massage, but
it definitely helps with the pains and tightness in your muscles.
It was good we had a relaxing day, as that
night we were going to endure a fun overnight bus and then early morning ferry
to Koh Tao. The tickets to the islands in the gulf had sold out, so we knew it
was going to be chaotic, and it was. 630pm came around and we joined the heard
of tourists making their way south. There were more then 200 people waiting for
a bus, and in true Thai manner, it was chaos and felt extremely unorganized.
Half an hour after the quoted departure time (early for Thai standards) and we
were on our way.
Besides having to wait for a few hours at
the wharf, and finding out we had gone to the port a lot further south and the
ferry was going to be two and a half hours longer, it was a fairly painless
journey.
Back to Koh Tao, one of my favourite places
on earth, one that I spent 7 weeks on on a previous trip. The island is one of,
if not the most relaxed, less touristy and quiet of the islands located in the
Gulf of Thailand. In saying that there are still tourists and bars and clubs,
but it still has the charm of old school Thailand, no chains or skyscrapers and
practically next to no rules.
We had two weeks booked here, the first
week at Simple Life Resort right in the middle of the action and just across
from the beach, and the second week up at the end of the beach in a cute little
bungalow with its own private beach for resort guests.
The day after we arrived, Conan and
Emma-Lee turned up and it was really good seeing some familiar faces. We spent
nearly a week with them before they continued their adventure to Laos.
The first week on Koh Tao we spent on the
beach, swimming and lazing in the sun, and hired motorbikes for a couple of
days so we could all explore the other beaches around the island.
We decided one day to do a boat trip around
the island, which involved sailing around a little paradise like island, visiting
all its little hidden coves and beaches and then finishing up on one of
Thailand’s most beautiful islands, Koh Ngyuan. Each little bay or beach we
stopped off was different to the previous, and each one seemed to be home to
different kind of sea life. The first stop we went snorkeling and spotted a few
black tipped reef sharks, the next were home to lots of anenomoes, the one
after had hundreds of parrot fish and it went on like this for all 6 stops,
each one offering some sort of unique sea life.
A week of good food, drinking at some bars with amazing scenery (beachfront and
up in the mountains) and of course a little bit of partying, especially new
years.
The whole beach was crammed on new years
with thousands of people boozing, dancing and watching the fire twirlers work
their magic. At midnight a very sketchy set up of fireworks were let off (and
thankfully none misfired and hit the nearby crowd) and we welcomed in the new
year. The girls retired a bit earlier then Conan and I wanted to, so we spent
it down the beach hammering down a few more Changs and Singas before heading
home at what I remember to be around the 5am mark. Probably would’ve made it
home earlier if I didn’t spend half an hour in 7-11 making peoples toasted
sandwiches.
The week with Conan and Em went too fast
and they were off to Laos and we were off to our new home, and the one Gem had
been looking forward to most of the trip.
Gem decided to do her advanced diving
course, which also coincided with moving to our new place, so while she was having
fun diving, I was moving our luggage to the new place, but it was easy enough
and our new places was beautiful. A little whitewashed sandstone bungalow
surround by frangipani trees and wild ferns, and the beach only a stones throw
away…It was easy to feel at home here.
The next 9 days was a lot of the same,
which was a lot of nothing, which is why you go to a tropical island isn’t it?
Our days were spent sitting by the pool or down by the beach or a mix of both,
eating lots of tasty food and drinking plenty of coconut shakes.
One morning we decided to do an early
morning dive together which was amazing. Chumpon is a 30m deep pinnacle that is
absolutely covered with sea life of all shapes and sizes. We had perfect
conditions as well, a beautiful sunrise, pretty calm water and the visibility
under the water was just insane, you could see so far into the distance. Our
second dive to Red Rock Drop was just as good as well, not as deep as our first
but equally as amazing.
We also spent a bit of time riding
motorbikes and exploring the island and its beaches located on the opposite
side of the island. These beaches were amazing and had half the crowds, and
some of them only had a handful of simple bungalows on them and that’s it. Koh
Tao is good like that, if you want to see and meet people, there are beaches
for that, but if you want to chill out in some peace and quiet surround by
nature, then it’s easy to do that also.
Our last full day on Koh Tao we decided to
head back to Koh Ngyuan early to avoid the crowds and get a good spot to sit in
the sun. We arrived around 930-10 and quickly discovered that it wasn’t early
enough, the beach was crammed already. We later realized the day trip quick
ferry from Koh Samui arrives at 9, and that explained the 1000’s of Chinese
tourists that were floating in the water donning their bright orange life
jackets. Luckily though we walked across the sandbar (which was only waist
deep) and over to the other side of the island, and there was no one there, so
we managed to get primes position on a nice flat rock on the waters edge and
laid there all day. As soon as the water over the sand bar dropped to
knee/ankle depth, the crowds headed over, but we had our spot and we weren’t
moving for anyone.
So the time had come (two days later then
originally planned) and it was time to leave Koh Tao and head back to Bangkok
for a night before flying home the following day. The ferry and bus ride this
time was painless and was fairly quick, and we arrived into Bangkok around
830pm and found some dinner and had a little wander through the night markets
before hitting the hay.
Our flight wasn’t till 8pm, so we had the
whole day to shop and hang around, and we still had a few things on the
shopping list to get. First stop was a boxing shop to pick up some new boxing
gear. The directions I had were pretty rough, but luckily we drove right past
it and we were able to get out and cross the road into the little shop stacked
floor to ceiling with boxing and kickboxing gear. 15 minutes later and with the
help of the very friendly lady who ran the place, I had myself some new gloves,
head gear and three sets of wraps for $90, not bad considering just the gloves
cost more then that in Australia.
After that successful stop we took a short
walk to MBK, the seven story shopping mall, that on the bottom looks just like
your average mall, but as you get higher it becomes more like a huge indoor
market selling anything and everything.
On our way to MBK, we had to walk through
some of the streets that were closed due to protest, which we thought sounded a
bit sketchy, but in the end it wasn’t bad at all! Thai peoples way of
protesting seems more like a camping festival! There were people camped
everywhere, stalls set up selling food and drinks and people playing music and
just hanging around, it was kind of weird, but rather cool at the same time.
We made it into MBK with a few hours to
complete our shopping mission, and long story short, we nailed it in less then
an hour. We even reframed from buying a lot of things we didn’t need (which is
harder then it sounds in Thailand as you convince yourself you need even the
most useless things). We also ate one of the tastiest meals of the whole trip
there, a bbq pork soup which doesn’t sound amazing, but it was extremely good!
Loaded up with bags, we got a cab and headed back to the hotel to pack our
bags/try and fit the new purchases into a bag and relaxed with one last Singa,
and before we knew it we were on our way to the airport, and the honeymoon of a
lifetime was coming to the end.
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Khao San Road at night |
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Khao San Road at night |
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Bug on Khao San Road |
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Bangkok at night |
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Bangkok |
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Street vendors in Bangkok |
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Tasty coconut ice crew |
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Khao San Road |
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Some of the locals on Koh Tao |
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New Year on Koh Tao |
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New Years on Koh Tao |
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Lighting lanterns on New Years |
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Long tail boats, Koh Tao |
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Our crib |
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Koh Tao Locals |
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Sunset Koh Tao |
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Emma-Lee floating about |
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Koh Nangyuan |
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Koh Nangyuan |
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Koh Nangyuan |
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Koh Nangyuan |
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Koh Nangyuan |
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Coconuts onKoh Nangyuan |
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coconuts and tropical waters, standard |
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Emma-Lee and Conan |
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Some guy having a hard time with his coconut |
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Longtails |
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Longtails |
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Some more Koh Tao locals |
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Koh Tao fruit man |
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Koh Tao |
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Hard life for a dog on Koh Tao |
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The streets of Koh Tao |
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Transport on Koh Tao |
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Koh Tao |
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Bar with a view, Koh Tao |
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Koh Tao |
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Sunset bar, Koh Tao |
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Dinner on the beach, Koh Tao |
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Koh Tao |
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Probably the best corn ever, Koh Tao |
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Hanging with my new mate |
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Child safety, Koh Tao |
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Local fixing his boat, and some safe trusty electricity wiring |
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One of you are lying...you both can't be the best |
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Local boat driver on Koh Tao |
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Koh Tao locals |
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Koh Nangyuan |
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Our last day at Koh Nangyuan |
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Koh Nangyuan |
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The views from our place |
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Beach dining |
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Special kids |
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Coral Bay, Koh Tao |
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Fruit man and his mate |
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Koh Tao cuisine |
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Breakfast with a view |
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Food |
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Random art in our room...dude smoking a joint and a creep watching through the window |
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Koh Tao |
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One of our homes for out stay on Koh Tao |
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Koh Tao |
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Sunset bar, Koh Tao |
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Good place for a few beers at sunset |
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Koh Tao |
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Local pups |
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New Years on Koh Tao |
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Our first attempt of a lantern didn't go to well |
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New Years on Koh Tao |
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New Years on Koh Tao |
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New Years on Koh Tao |
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New Years on Koh Tao |